As the title indicates, the motor goes round and round or at least we hope it does . . . but when the motor stops going round and round what to do?
Powered Graphotype machines (primarilyÂ Class 6200, Class 6300 and Class 6400)Â came from the factory with several motor options.Â In the beginning you could have your new Graphotype delivered with AC (alternating current) or DC (direct current) electric motors.Â AC or Alternating Current quickly became the dominant source of commercial electrical power and as such almost 99.9% of all Graphotype machines one might encounter today will be equipped with an AC motor.Â It is for this reason that we will not address other factory options here, we will concentrate on the most commonly found standard today the AC electric motor.
Within the AC motor options offered by Addressograph-Multigraph there were several sub options such as AC 115 VAC 60 Hz – Primary United States configuration
AC 115 VAC 50 Hz – European Configuration
AC 115/208-230 VAC PH 1- Alternate United States configuration – popular choice
AC 230 VAC PH 1 – Alternate United States configuration – primarily found in large industrial complexes
AC 208 VAC – European Configuration – NOT common
Graphotype parts catalog from 1959 offers the following motors for 6200/6300 Class machines.
E85-68-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 110V AC, 60 cycle (2-3/4″)*
E85-11-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 110V AC, 60 cycle (3″)*
E85-72-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 110V AC, 50 cycle (2-3/4″)*
E85-15-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 110V AC, 50 cycle (3″)*
E85-70-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 220V AC, 60 cycle (2-3/4″)*
E85-13-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 220V AC, 60 cycle (3″)*
E85-73-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 220V AC, 50 cycle (2-3/4″)*
E85-16-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 220V AC, 50 cycle (3″)*
E85-19-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1140 RPM, 110V AC, 40 cycle (3″)*
E85-17-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 110V AC, 25 cycle (3″)*
E85-20-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1140 RPM, 220V AC, 40 cycle (3″)*
E85-18-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1425 RPM, 220V AC, 25 cycle (3″)*
E85-12-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 110V DC, (3″)*
E85-14-PÂ 1/4 HP, 1725 RPM, 220V DC, (3″)*
( * ) Indicates distance between mounting holes center to center, when measured in line with shaft.
STOP IT – you are confusing me! I just need a motor.
Here at Graphotype.net we will make general recommendations but we want to always point out that the end user is responsible for their own machine.Â We recommend that you read the data plate affixed to all electric motors and replace your motor with the same specification unit as the one being replaced.
THE DATA PLATE IS YOUR NUMBER ONE SOURCE OF INFORMATION
The data plate will either be located on the end of the motor opposite the output shaft or on the body of the motor.Â Some of the information located on the data plate will be as follows:
ENCLOSURE: Generally all motors for Graphotype machines will have a NEMA 56 or 48Â type base mount enclosure.Â Most often these enclosures will beÂ Open Dripproof (ODP) with rigid base.Â Not all data plates will have an enclosure value or field but if they do this value will be something like 56Z, 56H, 48, 48Y or similar.
FRAME:Â Some motors may indicate a number similar to the NEMA enclosure number such as 48 or 56 with or without trailing Alpha designations such as Z, H, YÂ or other.Â You can use rigid frame base mount motors or cradle frame base mount motors.Â Â We recommend cradle frame base mount motors.
The photo on the left indicates a motor with a cradle mount while the motor on the right is outfitted with a rigid base mount.Â
SPEED or RPM: This is the most important specification that is synonymous with all Graphotype motors, is the RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) or Speed with which the motor rotates.Â 1725 RPM is the magic number for MOST Graphotype machines.Â Regardless of any other variable you want to ensure that the motor output RPM is equal to 1725 RPM.Â The best thing about the RPM rating is that for the most part this is an industry standard so it is NOT hard to locate electric motors with this correct RPM rating.
IMPORTANT NOTE:Â When replacing a motor inspect the OLD motor data plate and ensure that the replacement motor has the SAME RPM rating as the old motor.Â The 1725 RPM rating is the most common but it is NOT the only rating found on Graphotype machines.Â Replace the old motor with a motor of the SAME RPM rating.
HORSEPOWERÂ (HP): Horsepower is the Output Power generated by the motor. While we have encountered a VERY small number of 1/3 or .33 horsepower motors, the most common motor found on Graphotype machines is the 1/4 or .25 horsepower motor.Â You may replace any 1/3 hp motor with a 1/4 hp motor as long as you maintain the correct RPM.
PHASE (PH): 99.9% of all motors used on Graphotype machines will be Single Phase also indicated on data plates as PH 1.Â If you find you haveÂ a three phase motor or PH 3 please contact us via email and we will assist you directly.Â If you find your motor is a split phase please contact us via email and we will assist you directly.
VOLTAGE (V): All motors addressed here will be 115 Volt or 115/220 VoltÂ or 115/208-230 Volt.Â If you find the data plate on your existing motor indicates some other operating voltage please contact us directly via email for assistance.Â The voltage rating is the amount of volts required to operate the motor.Â DC motors are NOT very common except for very old machines.
HERTZ (Hz): Alternating Current motors use power that cycles positive and negative as it operates, this power cycling is called Hertz.Â All AC electric motors in the United States are 60 cycles per second or 60 Hz.Â If you find a motor with a rating of 50 HzÂ or 400 Hz or 400Â cpsÂ please contact us via email for assistance, these would have been for the military or special applications.
AMPERAGE or AMPS (A):Â This is the amount of power the motor will draw or use while operating.Â The AMP rating is of no real importance to a Graphotype owner other than it is useful in calculating the electric demand of the machine in terms of watts.Â To calculate the total electric demand of the machine when in operation you would multiply Volts x Amps = Watts.Â So if you have a 115v motor at 7 amps the total motor load would be 115 x 7 = 805 watts.Â If you use a work light then add the watts of the work light to the motor watts and you will develop a total power usage of the machine, i.e. 805 watts motor + 60 watts work light = 865 watts.Â This number is useful when factoring the amount of power needed to run the machine when in public where power is at a premium.Â So if you are going to be using your machine at a flea market or in public make sure you have at least.
CAPACITOR STARTÂ or START/RUN:Â Some electric motors use capacitors to start and/or start and run the electric motors.Â For the most part you will not encounter any capacitor equipped motors with Graphotype machines.Â Below are some photos of what a capacitor equipped motor would look like.
The above photos illustrate motors that are capacitor equipped – there is a possibility of remotely mounted capacitors but you will not see them on a Graphotype machine.
Where can I find a replacement motor?Â There are many places to purchase replacement electric motors but a few we can recommend are listed below.Â It is also a good idea to check your local yellow pages.
What brand should I use?Â You will find motors of various brands used on Graphotype machines we will NOT recommend one brand over another we are dealing with motor specifications not motor brands or manufacturers.Â Brands that one might find installed on machines or available as replacementsÂ include but are not limited to:
Dayton – Baldor – General Electric – Westinghouse – Marathon – among others
DRIVE PULLY:Â It is CRITICAL that you remove and reuse the Drive Pulley from the original motor.Â Drive pulleys are not always the same size and as such it is important that you use the old drive pulley as it was properly sized for your machine.Â Different size drive pulleys can cause the machine to rotate too fast or too slow so don’t use drive pulleys of unknown size, always use the old drive pulley.Â Generally the drive pulley is pressed onto the output shaft of the electric motor and held in place by a set screw on the pulley itself.Â There might be one or two set screws – this can only be determined by the person removing the pulley.Â Some pulleys may have keys that slip into a keyway on both the output shaft and pulley to help locate and dive the pulley.Â If you have a key on your drive pulley you must ensure that the replacement motor has the corresponding keyway in the output shaft.Â Take care to not loose the key when removing the old pulley.
DRIVE BELT – “V-BELT”:Â While you have the motor out for replacement it would be a good time to inspect the drive belt.Â Some older machines my have actual drive belts that look like leather cords or might be leather cords or round belts.Â If you have a round drive belt or leather cord you will need to see out a replacement from a source such as a sewing machine repair shop or similar.
If you have a “V” belt asÂ later machines do, then you should inspect the drive belt to ensure it is not damaged, frayed or cracked.Â If the belt needs to be replaced then replace with the same size and length as the old belt.Â Any well stocked auto parts store can measure your old belt and provide you a new one.Â
If the drive surfaces of the “V” belt are slick, burnedÂ or “glazed” over it is a good idea to replaceÂ the belt.Â Over time the rubber in the belt will become old, stiff and will degrade with age and use.
BELT TENSION:Â When replacing a drive belt it is important to note that a “V” belt should engage the drive pulley on the sides of the “V” and not bottom out on the pulley itself.Â The driving surfaces of the belt are the actual “V” sides of the belt not the bottom of the belt.Â
We mention this because many times drive belts on Graphotype machines may have been replaced by someone or at sometime with the wrong belt so before you strap in a replacement belt and go to town make sure the belt engages the drive pulley correctly and that you have the proper belt.Â Belt tension is IMPORTANT to the proper operation of the machine.Â Overly tight or too much tension on the belt will cause wear on the motor and can damage the Graphotype machine itself.Â Too little tension will cause the belt to slip and the machine to not function.
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